Espiritu Santo Bay Lodge: A Hidden Fly-Fishing Paradise on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula

Hidden along the enchanting, untamed coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula lies the charming Espiritu Santo Bay Lodge (ESB)—a place where endless turquoise flats teeming with fish meet the jungle’s edge.

Here, the Yucatán’s most protected and exclusive fishery lies in Espiritu Santo Bay. For anglers chasing saltwater fly-fishing dreams, this remote corner of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere feels like the edge of the map. Bonefish tail in skinny water, big tarpon roll along the mangroves and deep channels alike, and permit (the crown jewel of ESB) draw anglers from around the globe to test their skill at a true saltwater fly-fishing trophy.

However, a trip to ESB Lodge isn’t all about fishing—it’s about immersing yourself in a place where the pace of life slows, the fishery is wild, and every day of fishing holds the possibility of something unforgettable.

For Saltwater Fly Anglers, ESB Lodge Is Paradise on Earth

It sits beneath the palm trees on a remote stretch of the Yucatán Peninsula's east coast overlooking the vast Caribbean. Mexico’s storied flats fly-fishing (specifically permit fishing) was made famous along this coast. Unlike Espiritu Santo’s larger, more popular brother Ascension Bay, Espiritu Santo is considerably more exclusive and more difficult to access—resulting in more fish and fewer fishermen.

The Fishery

We simply cannot stay away from ESB Lodge. In only a few years, we have returned time and again to revisit the amazing fishery ESB Lodge calls home and to introduce anglers to one of the finest fly-fishing experiences in this hemisphere. ESB Lodge has long been one of—if not the most—coveted saltwater fly-fishing lodges of its kind in the world, and the proof is in the pudding.

Espiritu Santo Bay is vast, wild, and unbelievably diverse. One minute can be spent poling a sprawling permit flat, and the next targeting tailing bonefish or exploring estuaries and mangroves for tarpon or snook. What makes this area unique is the variety of fishing habitats and the consistency of opportunities for trophy fish.

Permit

Without a doubt, the centerpiece of the Espiritu Santo Bay fishery is the permit. This region boasts world-renowned numbers of permit and offers a sight-fishing experience that is second to none.

Permit are found in a variety of depths, from inches of water to as deep as ten feet. Although targeted on the flats, permit are, at heart, deep-water fish. They venture onto the flats with the tides to hunt. These shallow-water predators travel alone and in schools alike. Oftentimes, your largest permit are found alone or in small groups, while smaller fish predominantly travel in schools of tens or even hundreds.

Permit are found throughout ESB, from shallow flats to large schools in deeper water. Anglers targeting permit will get shots in a variety of settings across Espiritu Santo Bay.

Some argue that the Yucatán—and Espiritu Santo Bay specifically—is among the best places in the world to pursue permit on the fly. Due to minimal fishing pressure, anglers at ESB can experience the best of this permit paradise. Even with less-than-ideal conditions, our group landed nine permit during our most recent week. Heavy rain, thunder, and lightning essentially cut two and a half days of fishing, yet through cloudy conditions, we were in fish the entire week.

While you can’t control the weather, you can control the quality of your flats fly-fishing experience by choosing a seasoned and professional operation like ESB.

Tarpon

While not the focal point of the ESB Lodge fishing operation, the opportunities for tarpon at ESB are not to be forgotten. Tarpon fishing in Espiritu Santo—one of many ESB guides’ favorites—requires specific gear to cover a diverse range of fishing scenarios.

Juvenile tarpon and snook are sight-fished in shallow-water estuaries, requiring delicate presentations and accuracy. Yet trophy migratory tarpon are also found along the mouth of Espiritu Santo Bay, rolling in deep channels. Finding success here requires heavy tackle and powerful, quick casts to optimize your chances of connecting with a trophy fish.

Very rarely can one rig cover these two vastly different fishing opportunities, so being prepared to adapt to your water conditions when tarpon fishing is crucial.

What makes tarpon fly-fishing at ESB unique is the variety. We found tarpon of all size classes during our most recent week at ESB Lodge in September. Tarpon up to 100 lbs were seen, even though we were months from the peak of the tarpon migration.

Mornings at ESB Lodge can start by casting to and jumping acrobatic baby tarpon in the mangroves and finish in deep water launching big flies to “silver kings.” While primarily a permit destination, the tarpon fishing at ESB provides an exhilarating alternative to the ever-challenging permit hunt—making the chance of catching a Grand Slam a real possibility.

Bonefish

Often overlooked and underestimated, the bonefishing at ESB is in a caliber of its own. Bonefish are widely known for the technical sight-fishing opportunities they present and the backing-ripping runs they reward anglers with.

Yet many anglers lose sight of these fish while targeting permit at ESB. During our week, I spent many mornings and afternoons dodging poor conditions deep in the estuaries, targeting tailing bonefish in small groups or pairs.

While bonefish in Mexico are often regarded as smaller than those found elsewhere, many of the fish I caught were pushing the five-pound mark. These “gray ghosts” prefer the shallowest flats when searching for shrimp, crabs, and other prey—requiring delicate and accurate presentations.

For anglers looking for consistent opportunities at technical, hard-fighting fish, don’t forget about bonefish when fly-fishing Espiritu Santo Bay.

A Day at ESB

ESB has set the bar for hospitality in the fishing lodge space, redefining what it means to have exceptional service, dining, and lodging experiences while fly-fishing the world. They’re committed to delivering excellence and exceeding expectations for their guests, all while preserving the authenticity and spirit of this quaint, remote Mexican fly-fishing lodge.

This is evident from start to finish, especially in the dining experience, where the chef and kitchen staff craft incredible dishes made in-house reflecting the local cuisine, culture, and flair of the Yucatán.

Your day at ESB Lodge starts early, just in time to catch the sun rising over the vast Caribbean with a fresh cup of coffee. Feet in the sand, you watch the waves crash softly along the beach, contemplating what your fishing day has in store.

Shortly thereafter, ESB Lodge manager and host Maria greets you with a breakfast menu displaying a wide selection of hearty American breakfasts and Mexican classics like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Every meal at ESB Lodge seems to surpass the last, as if the food alone were the focal point of the trip.

After breakfast, you promptly board a shuttle for the ten-minute ride through Punta Herrero to meet your guides. As quickly as introductions are made, you’re off—motoring to any of the numerous corners of this incredible fishery.

While a permit-focused destination, the variety of fishing areas and structure found in ESB leaves nothing off the table. Many mornings we started exploring mangroves and deep channels near the mouth of the bay in search of rolling tarpon. Other days, we explored knee-deep water looking for tailing bonefish before changing pace and poling deeper flats in search of permit.

Whatever your day includes, the guides at ESB ensure it’s action-packed and tailored to your goals. You depart Punta Herrero promptly at 8 a.m. for your day of fishing and typically return before 5 p.m.—meeting other anglers on the beach to share a cerveza before hopping on the shuttle back to the lodge.

Fishing pack in tow, Maria and the ESB staff greet you with a cool towel and a beverage, commencing cocktail hour. This hour-and-a-half window between returning to the lodge and dinner provides guests the opportunity to clean up, relax, or even throw a few casts from the beach in front of the lodge.

Our group only fished a couple of evenings after returning, but still managed to jump and land a few juvenile tarpon and barracuda before retreating to the lodge for rotating appetizers and Punta Herrero’s best margaritas—courtesy of ESB fishing manager, Martin.

During cocktail hour, you’re greeted with a menu once again. Every night, dinner options include the “chef’s choice” (a mouthwatering selection of meals highlighting local and international cuisine), an alternative dish, and a vegetarian option. Fishing plans for the following day are reviewed at dinner while sharing highlights from the day’s adventure.

After dinner, we wished the staff goodnight and made our way to ESB Lodge’s famous outdoor bar to enjoy cigars and another cocktail before retreating to bed.

Getting There

To many Americans, the bustling tourist destinations of Cancún and Tulum come to mind when thinking of the Yucatán. ESB could not be further from this—both in spirit and in location.

Like many fishing trips in the Yucatán, your journey to ESB Lodge begins in Cancún. There are many ways to travel there from the U.S., but ESB strongly recommends arriving the day prior to your lodge transfer.

We stayed at the Courtyard Marriott Cancún upon ESB’s recommendation. The hotel has a lovely pool, bar, and restaurant, and it’s also where your private shuttle meets you for the final leg of travel to ESB.

At 8 a.m. the following morning, a driver takes you from the hotel to the Cancún FBO. From there, you board a private flight for a comfortable hour-long ride south before touching down on a private jungle airstrip.

This flight takes you along the coast, providing unforgettable views of places like Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Ascension Bay, and Espiritu Santo Bay. You can’t help but drool as you look out the window, pointing out the incredible amount of fishable water along the way.

You touch down on a small airstrip hidden beneath the jungle in an area called Pulticub. There, you meet Martin and begin your 1.5-hour shuttle along the coast. Minutes later, you arrive at ESB Lodge, just outside the sleepy lobster-fishing village of Punta Herrero. Hidden below the palms on a private white-sand beach, ESB is the charming little fishing lodge of your dreams.

ESB Fly-Fishing Gear

When you step foot in ESB, you’re entering one of the most coveted and demanding fisheries on the planet—a place where good gear is less about comfort and more of a requirement. Having the right equipment in Espiritu Santo Bay is the difference between landing the fish of a lifetime and telling the story of “the one that got away.”

Rods

Mexican customs rules allow tourists to enter the country with up to four fishing rods for personal use before being subject to taxes or import fees. Adhering to this rule while being prepared for diverse fishing opportunities can be tricky. With that in mind, we recommend the following fly rods for fishing Espiritu Santo Bay:

Bonefish Rod: A 7wt or 8wt saltwater fly rod is perfect for targeting bonefish. You want a rod with enough backbone to push light flies through heavy wind yet enough finesse to present them delicately to wary bonefish. While not the focus for many traveling anglers at ESB, you’ll regret not having a bonefish setup on board. Our favorites include the Winston Air 2 Max, Scott Sector, Sage Salt R8, and Orvis Helios D.

Permit Rod(s): This is the one you don’t want to leave home without. If you’re at ESB, it’s because you want to target permit in one of the most sought-after locations on the globe. A 9wt fast-action saltwater fly rod is the tool of choice for most permit anglers. Have at least one, if not two, rods designated for permit fishing to maximize your chances. Many anglers sharing a boat will rig two 9wts—one with a crab pattern and the other with a shrimp pattern—allowing for quick adjustments if a fish refuses your first presentation.

Tarpon Rod: Last but not least, the muscle. Tarpon fishing at ESB requires a wide variety of tackle for diverse scenarios. In the mangroves, we used 9 or 10wt rods with floating lines to present baitfish patterns delicately to spooky juvenile tarpon and snook. On the outer bay, we opted for 10–12wt rods with sinking lines, including clear-tip intermediate lines and even 400-grain sink tips. Having one (if not two) tarpon rods capable of targeting fish in both skinny and deep water will help you find success at ESB.

Saltwater Fly Reels

Saltwater fish like bonefish, permit, tarpon, and barracuda will test every component of your setup—and a weak drag system means game over. We recommend machined aluminum reels with bulletproof drags from proven manufacturers such as Abel, Nautilus, Hatch, Ross, Galvan, and Bauer.

These aren’t just pretty pieces of metal—they’re precision instruments built to handle screaming runs, sudden direction changes, and the kind of punishment that would destroy lesser reels. Whether it’s a permit peeling line in the shallows or a tarpon going airborne, you need a reel that won’t fail when it matters most.

Check out our complete selection of saltwater fly reels to prepare for your next adventure.

Flies

Shrimp Patterns
- Gotcha (tan), sizes #2–6 with bead-chain eyes (for bonefish)
- Spawning Shrimp (tan and white), sizes #6–1/0 with lead or bead-chain eyes (for bonefish and permit)
- Squimp, sizes #4–6
- Floating Shrimp, sizes #4–6

Crab Patterns
- Raghead Crab (tan and white), sizes #2–6 with lead eyes (yellow eyes often preferred)
- Flexo Crab (tan and white), sizes #4–6
- Strong Arm Crab (white), sizes #4–6
- Floating Crab, sizes #4–6

Baitfish Patterns
- Tarpon Toad (chartreuse/white, black/purple), various sizes
- EP Peanut Butter (black/purple, chartreuse/white), sizes #1–3/0
- EP Tarpon Bunny (black/purple, chartreuse/white), size #2/0

We are excited to welcome our guests to experience this exclusive fishery during prime weeks of the season.  Stay tuned for hosted fly fishing trip information and if you have any questions about availability or your next trip to ESB Lodge, please feel free to call our Missoula fly shop.